Painter, Pioneer, Patriot: Vlaho Bukovac’s remarkable journey.
- Brigitte Aflalo Calderon
- Jan 7
- 4 min read
The extraordinary journey of Vlaho Bukovac, from his childhood home in Cavtat to Paris Art Salons & Exposition Universelle
For years now, during the summertime, I have been returning to Cavtat, a slice of paradise nestled along Croatia’s stunning Adriatic coast. At the time I discovered it, I had no idea that it was the hometown of Vlaho Bukovac, the father of Croatian modern painting. From humble beginnings, Bukovac ended up shaping the art culture of Croatia, the Balkans and beyond. It’s funny how a place can surprise you, revealing more layers each time you return.
The Croatian native began his artistic journey as a house painter. Yes, really! When he was 16, he painted the walls of the family house as a gift to his father. This was his first artwork. Word spread quickly and he became known at the “Cavtat painter” with people traveling from near and far to admire those painted walls. Just like today, visitors still make their way to that same house—now a museum, to immerse themselves in his legacy.
A multicultural background
Vlaho Bukovac was born in 1855 into a family of seafarers and merchants. Back then, Cavtat was part of Dalmatia under the Austrian Empire. With an Italian father and a Croatian mother, the young boy grew up in a rich, multicultural environment. That cultural blend is evident in the variety and richness of his work. However, his artistic journey was shaped by more than just his roots.
An adventurer
Indeed, from a young age, Bukovac was drawn to the wider world. At just 11, he sailed to New York with his uncle where he worked on ships. Later, he navigated the routes between Istanbul and London, and eventually found himself in Peru. He earned money painting train cars and spent his free time sketching and painting. What began as a hobby turned into a serious passion.
The young artist’s restless spirit and appetite for discovery took him next to California. In San Francisco, he discovered a vibrant art scene. There, he took his first formal painting lessons and, to earn a living, made portraits from photographs. Art critics praised his talent and soon commissions started to roll in.
He returned home at 15, carrying in his luggage a painting that he had completed in San Francisco. Sultanija (Sultaness) was inspired by his travels to Constantinople. The artwork knew an immediate success. The artist's talent was quickly recognized. The Dubrovnik art society rallied behing his dream to become a painter, hoping he'd become the first local artist to gain European acclaim.
Bukovac surpassed this expectation. In 1877, he joined the prestigious École des Beaux-Arts in Paris. Just one year later, he participated in the Paris Salon. His painting, Une fleur, captivated the audience for its both its refinement and emotional intensity. The painting not only launched his reputation in France but it also established him as one of the rising stars in the European art world.
Bukovac spent 16 years in the French capital. The Paris Salon regularly showcased his masterpieces such as La Grande Iza.
Unlike many artists of his time, Bukovac never lost touch with his roots. Even while living amid the artistic buzz of Paris, he stayed in close contact with Croatian intellectuals who urged him to come back and help shape his homeland’s cultural future. No matter where life takes you, your roots can still call you home!
Prestige with a purpose
He did come back home. In the 1890s, Bukovac settled in Zagreb where he became a central figure in the emerging Croatian art scene. Several young artists who had left to attend school in Munich or Vienna, returned to work with him. He also helped create art insititutions. During this period, he painted many portraits. But, he also took on grand projects, such as the monumental ceremonial curtain for the Croatian National Theater, titled Croatian Reformation (1895).
Bukovac wasn’t just building his career—he was helping Croatian art grow. He taught, mentored young artists, and promoted local talent. He became a bridge between Western European style and Eastern tradition. He made it his mission to strengthen and celebrate his nation’s culture at a time when imperial forces threatened to overshadow it.
Making a mark in Europe
His reputation grew beyond Croatia. At the 1889 Exposition Universelle in Paris, his work stood alongside Europe’s top artists. This marked his rise as an international figure, leading to commissions from European elite.
In the early 1900’s, Bukovac left Zagreb for Cavtat. He settled in his childhood home. On the uppermost floor he built an atelier, one of the first such spaces in the area. He dedicated himself to paintings portraits of his family, relatives and friends, as well as landscapes.On the road again
Constantly seeking new challenges, Bukovac left Croatia with his family to teach at the Prague Academy of Fine Arts. He spent nearly 20 years in Prague. However his letters to his brother reveal a deep longing for home. He made sure the family house in Cavtat remained open, welcoming visitors eager to see the work of the now-renowned local painter. In 1906, while in Prague, Bukovac painted a portrait of his family, Fantasy (Heads of the family). This is one of his more avant-garde and emotionally charged compositions. A sharp contrast with his more conventional portraits. The setting is calm, almost domestic; yet, the painting leaves you feeling unsettled.
Bukovac visited his home town for the last time in 1920. Two years later, he died unexpectedly in Prague.
The Bukovac House-Museum
Each time I visit Cavtat, I stop by the house, tucked away on a narrow street that bears his name.
Walking in the House-Museum feels like stepping into a time-capsule. It’s more than a museum. If you ever get a chance to visit it, you’ll feel the artist’s presence in every corner. The walls whisper stories through his paintings and handmade furniture, the old family photographs, even the torn chairs or old sink.
You will be surrounded by portraits of his dear wife, Jelica, his beloved daughters and sons, his relatives as well as self-portraits; each of them bursting with life. Cavtat, his “dearest nest,” was always his anchor, the place he returned to, again and again.
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